One Course Conversations: Chef Resa Solomon St. Lewis, Baccanalle

Jerk chicken is often the default when people think of Caribbean food in Canada. How do you respond to that?

RS: Jerk chicken is certainly a signature dish when people think of the Caribbean in Canada. No surprise, as Jamaica is one of the biggest Caribbean countries, the largest source country for Canadian immigrants from the Caribbean, and probably the most popular Caribbean tourist destination for Canadians. So even though my Caribbean heritage is Trinidad & Tobago, I’m proud that our jerk chicken is excellent!

Do diners want authenticity, or the version they already know?

RS: Bit of both — and so do I. We make traditional and Caribbean fusion and innovate with modernized foods, just as they do in the Caribbean :)

What’s a dish you love that people don’t order enough?

RS: We have a diverse group of clients and those from the Caribbean (myself included) love our curry crab and dumpling — a heritage dish from Tobago. We offer it occasionally and I would love for more people to give it a try!

How do you balance tradition and adaptation?

RS: I was born in Canada and I am a professionally trained chef. My specialty is adapting, presenting, innovating a taste of the Caribbean in my dishes — and to create great tasting food. There is always a market for that!

How do you handle spice levels?

RS: I’m of Trinbagonian origin and our food style is well seasoned (robust flavour) rather than super hot. Our pepper sauce is often served on the side. My food style is similar, and it’s also about knowing my customer. We also adapt either way :)

What ingredient do you rely on that no one talks about?

RS: Green seasoning — a fresh herb marinade that is traditional in Trinidad and Tobago. We make our own and use it for more than a marinade!

Do you design dishes differently for takeout, catering, or pop-ups?

RS: We don’t have dine-in, but we do cater a lot. Our pop-up and takeout menu is more of a casual style, and our catering menu and private chef option include our “street food” faves along with more variety and customization.

What’s a Caribbean ingredient you wish you had easier access to here?

RS: Fresh fish and seafood — species from Caribbean waters — anytime I want!

What’s the best compliment you can receive?

RS: Biggest compliment is praise from an elder in the Caribbean community, my family, and repeat customers. I don’t roll my eyes for compliments — I’m a chef that likes to please lol.

Is Caribbean food finally being taken seriously in Canada?

RS: I think it’s gaining in popularity but still does not have the respect that it deserves.

If someone’s new to your food, what should they try first?

RS: I would recommend our 3-pack of patties — handmade from pastry to filling and comes with one of our side sauces.

What dish tells your story best?

RS: Our curry shrimp and total Trini black lentil dhal rice bowl.